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 What Motor Oil?
 
 6/14/2012 10:24:50 AM
Van330ci
7 posts


What Motor Oil?
 (Canada)

What are you guys using for motor oil in the 1st Gen motors? Can you run synthetic, or is that a bad idea since it is injecting oil into the carburator?

Thanks Guys!

-Luke

 6/14/2012 1:31:35 PM
lance
154 posts
1st


Re: What Motor Oil?
 (United States) Modified By lance  on 6/14/2012 12:31:59 PM)

I do not think any of us are running synthetic oils,I think the last oil change I did I used Valvoline Racing Oil 10w-30.  I have heard not to use syn and i have heard it does not matter since we pre-mix our gas and 2 cycle oil.

 6/15/2012 9:26:42 AM
mbuskuhl
251 posts
1st


Re: What Motor Oil?
 (United States) Modified By mbuskuhl  on 6/15/2012 8:27:00 AM)

If you want 1 extra HP and want to rebuild your motor more often, use 10w30. Otherwise, go for Valvoline VR1 20w50. Watch Autozone for when it goes on sale and then buy a few cases. 1oz-1gal 2 cycle pre-mix. Valvoline has some in a blue bottle that works fine.

As to synthetic, just have a look here http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/h/40/20w50.htm. I couldn't tell a difference and since I use 8qts and change every weekend VR1 was more cost effective.

 6/15/2012 11:38:49 AM
lance
154 posts
1st


Re: What Motor Oil?
 (United States)

I checked last night and i use 20w-50 also. when you race 1 or 2 times a year you dont change oil that much

 6/15/2012 4:21:52 PM
travis77
49 posts
2nd


Re: What Motor Oil?
 (United States)

DO NOT use synthetic oil.  20/50 or 10/40.  Also, not sure if it makes difference in oil due to elevation? 

we also use Benoil mixture.  Not sure if its bette than just off the shelve 2cy mix, but it smells good when its burning :)

 6/15/2012 4:55:21 PM
Van330ci
7 posts


Re: What Motor Oil?
 (Canada)

Thanks for the info guys! Will the 20w-50 be ok when the temps drop? We have some races in the spring and fall where it is 30-40 degrees in the morning for practice/qualifying!

 6/18/2012 9:08:45 AM
mbuskuhl
251 posts
1st


Re: What Motor Oil?
 (United States)

As long as you let the oil get up to temp before going out on track and make sure it stays at operating temp. Might need to experiment with taping off some of the radiator and/or oil cooler. Recommended temps can be found here: http://www.mazdaspeeddevelopment.com/pdfs/catalog/techtips.pdf

The synthetic oil debate comes from the OMP. If you are using the OMP then you should use regular oil, if you have disabled the OMP then synthetic is fine.

 6/18/2012 10:34:38 AM
Van330ci
7 posts


Re: What Motor Oil?
 (Canada)

Thanks again for all the info guys!  I ended up going with the Valvaline VR1 20w-50 I still have the OMP connected, so that seemed to be the best option. I had a leak at the oil pan gasket, so I dropped that down, repainted it and put it back up this weekend. Now all I need are new harnesses and I will be ready for tech inspection. I am hoping to do my first race at the end of July (The next spec7 regional race up here)

 

Thanks again!

 6/23/2012 9:21:38 PM
PreciousRoy
8 posts


Re: What Motor Oil?
 (N/A)
What about for everyday driving? 10w30 ok right?
 3/15/2013 1:06:16 AM
Chris Taylor
137 posts
1st


Re: What Motor Oil?
 (United States)
Late to the party but I've run synthetic in 3 racecars and never had a problem I could attribute to it. All use the OMP but I premix as well.

The one I still have has been a racecar since 1995 and had synthetic in it for 10 years, and always Mobil1.

There's tons of info out there from the oil companies and big-name rotary shops that have run it for years without problems, but it's all up to to you. Personally I'm a big fan of them. Blew a brand new engine up a week before the race, had too much else going on to yank it and rebuild it, friend had a good rebuilt engine sitting on the floor he offered for $200. He always ran synthetic in it, and it sat with synthetic in it. What he failed to tell me was that he took out the oil pump (for some unknown reason) and put the pan back on before putting it in the corner. I fired that engine up 5 times and ran it for up to 20-30 seconds with zero oil pressure trying to figure out if it was a faulty gauge or what. Finally called him, told him it had no pressure and he said "did you put a pump in it?". Anyway, long story short, that was the engine in my car for the next 2-3 years until it finally let go because there were only 2 of the 6 bolts on the front needle bearing cover and they started backing out. After dumping a ton of shavings in the pan it finally got to the meat of the the bolt head and wiped both out, resulting in probably a half inch of end play and the ultimate complete destruction of the motor.

Moral of the story: when you hear a ticking on the front of the engine and it's not the water pump, pull the front cover off. Oh and synthetics are fine even if you inject. :)
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